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Macroterme turf

Macroterme turf

Question: can I sow macrothermal essences in my garden?

good morning, I am writing to you as I have great difficulties with the lawn of my garden, the place where I am is Torchiara province of Salerno (4 km from Agropoli) last year I planted lawn (microthermal), but you did not give me never the desired results, in spring I re-sowed it obtaining a good result, but as soon as the hot patatrac came, much of it turned yellow and dried. I state that the garden is exposed to the sun all day, the soil is clayey with 10 cm above the surface and I have little water to irrigate. So I would like to plant some type of macrotherm resistant to this type of habitat, what do you recommend to sow? Thanks in advance


Macrothermal turf: Answer: a grass grass

Dear Gs,

preparing a new turf is not easy, especially in the conditions you mentioned: direct sun, clayey soil, a thin layer of good earth, drought. Even in much better conditions, it can happen that the summer irreparably ruins the turf, especially if it is not yet well stabilized. The meadows are made up of small ground cover plants, which produce tufts of stems and leaves, supported by a shallow but fairly wide root system; this type of vegetation in general, if well developed and rooted, can tolerate summer heat and drought without problems, as long as it is not a matter of weeks without water. There are different types of plants for the turf, which have different degrees of resistance to heat and sun; in general, a sturdy turf, even if yellowed due to heat and dryness, tends to recover in autumn, when the rains arrive; this is because the root system resists alive under the ground, and upon the arrival of the damp coolness it starts up again and produces new leaves. It is clear that the lawn must already be well developed and rooted when the summer heat arrives. For this reason, grassy carpets are usually laid in early autumn, or in late winter or early spring; it is enough that the minimum temperatures are above 10-12 ° C, and you can start preparing the soil and sowing seeds. The soil should be well worked thoroughly, with a motor hoe, so that it is rich and porous, adding manure and sand, together with the suitable soil for lawns, which contains substances capable of improving the germination of the seeds. Then you sow, taking advantage of the typical climate of spring or autumn: a cool and humid climate, with rain and not excessively hot air. In this way, even if the water to irrigate does not arrive, the seeds and young plants find all the water they need from nature. When watering the new lawn, it is important to favor the development of the root system in depth, which is achieved by watering thoroughly at intervals of about 3-4 days; waiting for the soil to dry, so that the roots are forced to sink into the earth to look for water. If, on the other hand, we water a little every day, the roots tend to widen, remaining very superficial, giving rise to a lawn that will be subject to all the vagaries of the climate, not being protected by the soil. A well-developed turf, sown in February-March (depending on the climate), when the heat arrives, in May or June, will already be resistant enough to withstand the heat without major problems.

That said, certainly in conditions of heat and drought it is good to choose a seed that tolerates such conditions well, rather than a classic "English lawn"; even in non-prohibitive climatic conditions, less demanding plants are often used, which do not require constant and continuous care.

For the area where you live, macrothermal essences are ideal, as they should not withstand an intense winter cold. The most common are cynodon (or the gramigna), paspalum and zoysa. Clearly these are not the typical weeds that plague our lawns, vegetable gardens, flower beds as a weed, but of improved varieties, with more compact development, and well resistant to heat, sun, drought.


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