Typical Italian cured meats: Salama from PGI sauce

Typical Italian cured meats: Salama from PGI sauce

Production area

EU recognition: 2014

The "Salama da sugo" is a product composed of a mixture of flavored pork meats and stuffed in the pig's natural bladder, sold as a raw product or, with subsequent heat treatment, as a cooked product ready for consumption. The processing, conditioning and packaging area of ​​the PGI includes the territory of the province of Ferrara with the exception of the municipalities of Goro, Codigoro, Lagosanto and Comacchio.

Salama da sugo (photo Riccardo Ferraresi

Salama da sugo (photo Riccardo Ferraresi

Production specification - Salama da sugo Igp

Article 1
The Protected Geographical Indication "Salama da sugo" is reserved exclusively for the product that meets the conditions and requirements established in this production specification.

Article 2
Product description
The "Salama da sugo" is a delicatessen product consisting of a mixture of flavored pork meats and stuffed into the natural pig bladder. The product, after drying and curing, can be marketed as a raw product, or with subsequent heat treatment, as a cooked product.
2.1. Physical characteristics (raw product)
weight: between 700 and 1,400 grams at the end of the seasoning period.
shape: spherical, so-called melon, tied by twine in 6/8 segments with a median constriction in the center.
external surface: irregular, possibly covered with traces of mold that occur naturally during the seasoning phase.
consistency: firm and compact.
2.2. Chemical characteristics (raw product)
Water: max. 30%
Fat: 50%, +/- 5
Protein: 20%, +/- 5
Collagen / protein ratio: 10 g / 100 g, +/- 3 g
2.3. Organoleptic characteristics (cooked product)
color: dark brown;
perfume: intense, strongly aromatic;
flavor: savory, full, with aromatic residues that persist even after the meal consistency: soft and grainy.

Article 3
Production area
The processing, maturing, conditioning and packaging area of ​​the "Salama da sugo" includes the administrative territory of the province of Ferrara with the exception of the municipalities of Goro, Codigoro, Lagosanto and Comacchio.

Article 4
Origin of the product
Each phase of the production process must be monitored by documenting the incoming and outgoing products for each. In this way and through the registration of producers and packagers in special lists managed by the control structure as well as through the timely declaration to the control structure of the quantities produced, traceability and traceability (from downstream to upstream of the production process) of the product is guaranteed. .
All natural and legal persons registered in the relevant lists are subject to control by the control structure pursuant to art. 7, in accordance with the provisions of the production specification and the related control plan.

Article 5
Obtaining method
5.1. Pig breeding and slaughter
The raw material destined for the production of the “Salama da sugo” must come from pigs, whose slaughtering age must be greater than 9 months and the weight not less than 160 kg, +/- 10%. There must be a minimum of 24 hours and a maximum of 96 hours between slaughtering the pigs and processing the meat.
5.2. Raw material and ingredients
The "Salama da sugo" consists exclusively of the following cuts of meat, and in the percentages indicated:
- schooner: 25%, +/- 15
- capocollo: 25%, +/- 15
- bacon: 25%, +/- 15
- shoulder: 20%, +/- 15
- language: 3%, +/- 2
- liver: 2%, +/- 1
An optionally permitted cut of meat is:
shoulder mince (also called lard mince or school mince): 25%, +/- 15.
The use of cuts of meat not previously indicated is not allowed.
The ingredients per kg of meat are:
- red wine: 15 cl, +/- 5 cl
The following wines can be used: Fortana, Merlot del Bosco Eliceo, Sangiovese di Romagna, Lambrusco, Refosco. Aging must not exceed 18 months.
- broken and / or ground black pepper: 2.5 gr, +/- 0.50 gr;
- coarse sea salt: 26 gr, +/- 4 gr.
Any optional ingredients are:
- spices: cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves used together or individually in quantities equal to 0.75 gr per kg of meat, +/- 0.50 gr;
- brandy, grappa or rum used individually as partial substitutes for red wine, in quantities up to 1 cl per kg of meat;
- preservatives according to the law.
5.3 Processing techniques
5.3.1 Trimming and kneading
The cuts are worked manually with the help of a knife, to allow accurate trimming of the meat and complete removal of the external tendinous parts. The liver is minced with a meat grinder having plates with 3-4 mm diameter holes.
The various meat components added to the ingredients are ground in the meat grinder having 6-8 mm diameter molds. The tongue can be ground at this stage, or cut into cubes and left to macerate for a maximum of 24 hours in red wine and added at the end of the kneading process. Before moving on to the next phase, the final mixture is manually tested and must be homogeneous, dry and not greasy, while the wine is completely absorbed. A rest period of at least 2 hours follows up to a maximum of 120 hours.
5.3.2 Bagging and binding
The pig's bladder is cleaned and preserved in salt for a minimum of 2 months and a maximum of 1 year. Subsequently it is desalted with water and vinegar and stuffed with a dose of ground coffee weighing between 1,200 and 2,000 grams. The bagging operations are carried out manually to ensure the integrity of the bladder since any holes or damage to the external membrane can compromise the success of the product. The binding operations follow by the use of twine and / or elastic ring: these operations are also carried out by hand to give the product the traditional melon shape with 6/8 segments with median constriction.
Care must be taken not to puncture the bladder throughout the production process.
5.3.3 Drying
The “Salama da sugo” is placed in special rooms at a temperature between 15-20 ° C, in conditions of relative humidity between 50-90% for a period not exceeding 5 days. The end of the drying period is established by evaluating the surface of the product which must be dry to the touch.
5.3.4 Seasoning
The seasoning of the "Salama da sugo" has a minimum duration of 6 months, which can be reduced to 4 months only in the case of cooked salama da sugo, provided that the sausage does not exceed the weight of 1500 g. The premises must ensure adequate ventilation and air exchange, as well as keeping the following conditions unaltered: temperature between 6-18 ° C, relative humidity between 50-90%.
5.3.5 Possible heat treatment: cooked “Salama da sugo”
Once the seasoning period is over, the “Salama da sugo” can be released for consumption in the cooked version. In this case, it is subjected to washing with hot water at a temperature between 35 ° C and 45 ° C, to eliminate the traces of superficial mold that naturally form during the seasoning. The product is then packaged with or without a bladder, whole or in segments of variable weight, in a first flexible wrapping resistant to sterilization temperatures, and sealed so as to contain the liquid that comes out of the product during cooking. The autoclave heat treatment follows at the operating temperature between 115 and 121 ° C.

Article 6.
Link with the territory
The "Salama da sugo" enjoys a remarkable reputation based on different forms of connection with the territory to which it belongs.
6.1 Historical link
The origins of the "Salama da sugo" are distinctly from Ferrara and can be traced back to the Renaissance period, when the Dukes of Este, who governed the city from the 12th to the 17th centuries, gave a strong boost to convivial entertainment.
The first signs of similar processes to today's "Salama da sugo" are found in the cookbooks of Cristoforo da Messisbugo, a scalco at the Este court, and in particular in his treatise Banchetti, compositions of food and general apparatus of 1549, where the author dwells in particular way on the sausage filling technique and on the use of red wine to flavor meat.
After two centuries, the Ferrara historian Antonio Frizzi composes a playful poem entitled La Salameide (1722), a real tribute to the product, in which the author, recreating in a fantastic letymology the name salama, honors its origins in Ferrara.
A few years later, in 1761, Don Domenico Chendi, parish priest of Tresigallo, a town in the province of Ferrara, published an agronomy manual entitled the Ferrarese farmer, in which he detailed the processing and cooking techniques of the product still valid.
Other references, clear and precise, describe the "Salama da sugo" as a product of high gastronomic value, increasing its reputation. The numerous citations contained in works by writers (Carducci, Bassani, Bacchelli, Camporesi, Piovene) or by gastronomes and experts (Barberis, Alberini, Guarnaschelli Gotti, Molinari Pradelli, Veronelli), as well as the appreciation of famous people, such as the Mascagni musician or actress Greta Garbo. Pellegrino Artusi himself talks about it in his fundamental work The science in the kitchen and the art of eating well (1891, recipe N. 238), while Mario Soldati dedicated to her in 1958 an episode of the famous television program "Journey in the Po valley in search of genuine food ”as a symbol of the Ferrara tradition.
A further important reference to the reputation of the product is contained in the first edition (1931) of the Italian Touring Club's Gastronomic Guide of Italy: “A very famous specialty of pure Ferrarese brand - which is produced both in the city and in several centers in the province - is the salama da sugo ". It should also be noted that in the 1967 edition of the "Yearbook of the Italian Academy of Cuisine Ferrara, it is remembered as the famous city of Salama da sugo.
Today all the Italian gastronomic guides, as a seal of a consolidated reputation, contain references to the "Salama da sugo".
6.2 Environmental link
The influence of the environment on the reputation of the "Salama da sugo" is equally well known. The area of ​​the entire Ferrara province is an area removed from the marshes through subsequent remediation. The first date back to 1471 during the Duchy of Borso d’Este and since then they have followed one another, albeit with different intensity until the last century. The result of this great work of hydraulic arrangement is a territory characterized in all its extension by the presence of a dense network of irrigation and drainage channels. The abundance of water, in addition to favoring pig farming, has influenced and influences the local relative humidity rate, which is extraordinarily high both in the minimum and maximum levels, both in absolute values ​​and in comparison with that of the neighboring provinces, as they demonstrate the historical series recorded by the Emilia Romagna Region. This microclimatic condition in its specificity concerns the whole province, with the exclusion only of the coastal municipalities in which the humidity values ​​are balanced due to the concomitant influence of the brackish air. This condition has beneficial effects on the maturation of the "Salama da sugo" and consequently on its organoleptic characteristics, since it facilitates, during the entire period of long aging, a gentle and gradual drying both on the surface and at the heart of the product, leaving it soft and compact evenly. The same environmental situation contributes to the formation of the particular bacterial flora which develops in the same period on the surface of the product and which contributes to the formation of its aroma. During the seasoning, important dietary transformations also take place: the saturated fats of the dough are transformed, by the fermenting microorganisms, into polyunsaturated fats, making the product more digestible and healthier.
6.3 Economic and social link
The province of Ferrara is characterized by the presence of numerous companies that have kept the production method of the "Salama da sugo" typical of the local tradition unchanged over the years. This "know-how", well known since the Renaissance, is found in the product processing stages, some of which are extremely characteristic because they are still carried out with a good dose of manual skills (the trimming of the meat, the bagging, the binding) or with expert eye (the evaluation of the right seasoning of the product): delicate steps that only the experience of a consolidated local workforce can guarantee.
6.4 Cultural link
The numerous fairs and folklore events dedicated to the product, including those of Guarda Ferrarese and Buonacompra (end of July), are the reason for the attraction of many visitors to the production area of ​​"Salama da sugo". the latter since 1974 recalls the consumption of the product linked to the hemp harvest.
Another very strong cultural link between the product and the territory is given by the custom, always respected, of preparing the Salama da sugo "during weddings.

Article 7
The control of product compliance with the specification is carried out by a control structure, as established by articles 10 and 11 of Reg. (CE) 510/2006. This structure is the control body Agroqualità Spa, with headquarters in Viale Cesare Pavese n. 305, 00144 Rome, tel. +39 06 54228675, fax +39 0654228692, e-mail [email protected]

Article 8.
Packaging and labeling
The product packaging methods upon release for consumption provide for the raw product an information tag placed on the product; for the cooked product, a cardboard package wrapping the previous wrapping used during the heat treatment, as indicated in point 5.3.5 of this production specification. Both packs must bear on the label in clear and legible characters, in addition to the Community graphic symbol and related wording in accordance with the provisions of Reg. (EC) 1898/2006 and the information corresponding to the legal requirements, the following indications:
- “Salama da sugo” untranslatable, followed, in full or abbreviation (PGI), by the wording translatable Protected Geographical Indication;
- the name, company name, address of the manufacturing and packaging company;
- the graphic symbol of the denomination as specified below.
The addition of any qualification not expressly provided for is prohibited.
However, the use of indications that refer to names or company names or private brands is allowed provided they have no laudatory meaning or that are misleading the consumer, as well as other truthful and documentable references that are permitted by EU, national or regional legislation and which do not conflict with the purposes and contents of this specification.
As shown in the figure below, the product logo consists of a rectangular image oriented horizontally in the center of which the product stylization appears. The image is included in a frame bearing the word "SALAMA DA SUGO" with the text composed in uppercase Arial Regular typeface.

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